Alternatively, leave the better known island of
Unguja behind and set sail for Pemba, which is
smaller, lusher and hiller than its neighbour.
Few tourists come here, and the beaches are
beautiful, unspoiled, and otherworldly.
At night the wind that whispers through the
clove plantations which cover most of Pemba
might bring the sound of distant drumming. But
don’t be tempted to set off toward the noise –
in the 1930s Pemba was famous the world over for
the power of its sorcerers and magicians, with
devotees of the black arts coming from as far
away as Haiti to be initiated into the rites of
Pemban witchdoctors. By all accounts Pemba is
still a centre of witchcraft today, but visitors
will be unlikely to see any hint of the occult.
Instead you can float across spectacular coral
reefs, laze on those untouched beaches and
explore the winding hills and dense vegetation
of the interior.
The tiny number of visitors to Pemba every year
means that the island has little in the way of
tourist infrastructure – which for alternative
travellers is the main attraction. Small
guesthouses are dotted around the island, and
there are a couple of upmarket diving hotels and
resorts.
Visitors may be surprised to find that
bullfighting is a popular local sport,
supposedly imported by Portuguese invaders in
the 17th century. The Pemban version, however,
simply involves testing the skill of the bull in
a series of bold moves by the matador, after
which the bull is loaded with flowers and
praise, and paraded around the village.
Misali Island, to the west of Pemba, is reputed
to have been used as a hideout by the notorious
pirate Captain Kidd, who is even said to have
buried treasure here. Today a conservation
program has been established, and visitors can
come for the day, snorkel off the beach and walk
in the forest. Locals believe the island is
holy, having been used by the prophet Hidara as
a prayer mat. Visitors to the island are asked
to respect local customs and beliefs.
There are many historical sites and ruins to
explore on Pemba including a number of old
mosques and tombs and the old town fort of Chake
Chake. The Pujini ruins south-east of Chake
Chake are the remnants of a fortified town built
around the 13th century.
The Ngezi Forest is a protected area in the
northwest corner of the island. It is home to
endemic flora and fauna species such as the
Pemba flying fox (a big bat) and the Pemba palm,
which is found only in the region of Ngezi
Forest and is known locally as Mapapindi palm.
The beauty of Pemba is bewitching. The epitome
of a tropical paradise, Pemba has green valleys
with rice paddies and palm trees and clove
plantations that shade the roads. Vistas of the
Indian Ocean are breathtaking as they appear
through the peaks and depths of Pemba’s terrain.
It is a sight not to be missed.
